Showing posts with label Finisterre. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Finisterre. Show all posts

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Ode to the amaWalker pilgrims








 























We had two married couples who got on really well and who were a great delight.
Our senior citizen was Roy, a musical chap who carried and played his large and small organs (which were often the butt of risqué jokes and innuendos!)
He even entertained us and other diners in Santiago by playing the grand piano in the Casino R
estaurant – once the domain of gentlemen only.   His wife Kay is a bubbly, happy, cheerful Aussie who enjoyed her beers and even a Spanish version of a frosty, slush-puppy Guinness.

Charles was quieter but became the story teller in the group and after a Brandy and coke responded to the pleas of the younger ladies by regaling them with tales of his shipwreck off the Seychelles and his many canoeing escapades.
 His wife Barbara was our poet and mystic who spread calm and serenity and off the road. Excepting one night when Charles suggested they share a top or bottom bunk. (She put his daring suggestion down to the number of beers he had that day!)

Linda was our wild child – setting the pace by walking alone from St Jean Pied de Port the day before we arrived in Roncesvalles and also doing a solo hike up to O Cebreiro when we all got the taxi up the hill for breakfast.

Janet – the only US member of the group – was our invaluable translator of menus and notices stuck on doors, and telephone-whizz who was able to call hotels, taxis and transfer companies on our behalf. She learned the 12 South African slang words given to her and delivered an amusing speech all about ‘kak hills’ and ‘vrot rocks’ ‘blerry blisters’ and ‘lekker’ food. She is an Honorary South African with a badge to prove it.

Kim Francis was our morning song bird who woke up singing a Yoga tune, laughing and smiling like a breath of fresh air all along the Camino.

Sally, her roomie, was the quieter one, often comparing herself (mostly her aches and pains) with everyone else’s. Sally proved to herself that she is stronger than she thought she was.

Kathy was our girl scout, always in front, forging up or down the mountains and arriving first at the town or village, sussing out the easiest route to our overnight accommodation and then sending directions ahead.

Rayna, her roomie, was the carer on the team, always ready with a travel sick pill or a blister plaster when a pilgrim was in need.






Carole and Kim – our Jo’burg girls – skipped and ran, hopped and giggled their way across the Camino often surprising us by dashing past us and leaping into the air just ahead of us like Springboks!! They trekked an extra 70km up and down the Cebreiro hills like two gazelles and sent an sms to Syl, “Thank you for giving us our wings (angel wings) for this wonderful walk!”

Eugenie, Syl’s roomie, went from walking 0km to hiking 30km and surprised everyone (including herself) by setting the pace, often leaving the younger women behind in her dust.
Syl was the planner and organiser who made sure everyone had a bed at night, a meal and someone to help cart their heavy baggage to the next overnight stop. She was often the sweeper and made sure that no-one was left on the road.

Pami spent 9 days on the Camino with the group. Unfortunately she had to leave us to return home when her sister became critically ill in Cape Town. But, she left us with her deep spirituality and love of the Camino, making sure that she was in our thoughts and hearts as we continued on without her.


PS:  Pami's sister Joy passed away peacefully on Sunday 3rd July.  The whole amaWalker group send their deepest condolences to her and her family.  Rest in peace Joy.






Sunday, June 19, 2011

Sunday in Negreira

Leaving Santiago

Hello
have been thinking along the way what I needed to say if found an internet cafe... so this will be a big jumble of things....

New learnings and insights

1. there is a lot of security and comfort walking in or with a group. Walking´alone´ is another ball game. You have to be so much more in touch with whats going on, and self-reliant. I´ve missed some markers, trusted other pilgrims (going the wrong way themselves) and generlly been a little deurmekaar on the route today. A group with you or coming up behind always made me feel safe and secure and I could just walk, knowing that a friendly familiar face was not far behind me.
Pilgrim statue at Negreira
2. I would love to have ´a Sylvia´with me all the way. Sylia - while we might not have realized it at the time, I think we all relied on you, your knowledge and common sense. Questions like, so which way to do go to get out of town tomorrow morning?, sms´s to Sylvia that asked which path did you take at this point? etc etc

3. I never relied on a guidebook up to Santiago, now suddenly thnk I need one, but it has just complicated my life. I´ve taken wrong turns, gone up and down streets etc etc, instead of just trusting the way marking ... I need to learn to trust the way marks. This false trust in a book is also complicated by a sudden urge to use the distancs given in the guidebook as the absolute truth .. and that has also caused problems. So ... at some point I put the book away, and put my watch on another screen so that I couldn´t see how far I´d gone. 200 m noted in the book before turn L, is NOT always 200m .... the sign might only appear at 300 m - and the sign is generally correct!

4. I felt a little invincible which is not good. I got into town early, and could quite easily just have continued to the next stop 30km away. I felt strong, fit, well, well watered and ready for the task. My thoughts being that Hotel Tamara where I´m staying in like a city lodge, and is opposite a large petrol garage just outside town ... not the nicest most refreshing view from my bedroom window, so maybe I must go on. Other thoughts... I now have all this time to kill before tomorrow morning and my next stage. But I slowed myslf down, and asked, what´s the rush? ...

Horreo (corn storage) at Negreira


Main road through a village

Early morning traffic
5. so, put my back pack down and walked into town to look for lunch and an internet cafe. And decided to explore a little.

6. The Spanish are apparently not great on an early proper lunch, even on Sundays. All I could get was the usaul bl&$%"$g bocadillio with ham and cheese - so today has been a breaded-out day again. I´m now starting to detest french loaves, no matter how fresh they are. I did however have very nic coffee´s and tea.

Sylvia - that lovely place on the river at Ponte Maceira was closed - so I couldn´t get a stamp there. Am sorry about that. The door had no opening times displayed so it didn´t make sense to even wait.

The walking was a breeze today despite the hill that I had to cross to get to Alto Mar do Ovellas. (45 m above sea level to 275m). Walked behind a grop of spanish men who jabbered like women all the way! .. and didn´t see another female walker at all during the time I was on the road.

so ... have done some exploring - Negreira has a lovely shopping street, and saw some lovely clothing that others in the group would have appreciated. I even tried on a bolero waistcoat thing I saw in a window in a shop.

I know how to leave town tomorrow for the 35 odd km to my next stop.

Have done some shopping for the walk tomorrrow, where it was noted in both guide books that I´m carrying that there are very few bars etc. Funny .. even on todays stretch, there was only 1 bar - the Bonka Cafe at 8km from Santiago. Otherwise nothing on the road, or open at all! If its like that tomorrow, I could have problems. I will also carry extra water. All the water points today said not suitable for drinking.

You are all in Johannesburg as I write this. Thinking of Sally on the Gautrain going to retrieve her suitcase from her friend in Sandton. Rayna, Eugenie, Syl, Roy and Kay waiting for their connecting flights to Durban, Kim back in Turkey already, Janet home in the States and trying out her bike to see if all the walking has helped get her more bike fit! Linda is on her island, hopefully having a drink. Charles and Barabara ae in the Uk with their sons.

Well .... off to wash my walking clothes, have a nap and do what ever pilgrims do while wating for the next day. I´ve brought fruit from the Negreira version of fruit and veg city so am planning to enjoy my fruit as I couldn´t get a nice salad for lunch.

Rain predicted for tomorrow - so please all hold thumbs that it holds off until I´m in at Olveiroa.

Kathy


Sunday, May 29, 2011

Pamplona to St Jean

The amaWalkers tour starts today with a trip to St Jean for lunch. We've had a great time in Pamplona and the weather has been kind to us - cool in the morning, warm by mid-day and hot in the afternoon.
We all went our own way - I met Isa at the bus station at 10am and spent the day with her. Isa and I worked together as hospitaleras at San Roque albergue in Corcubion (on the route to Finisterre) in 2009 and have lkept in touch all this time.  Isa can't speak English and my Spanish is rudimentary so we used Spanglish, hand signals and a dictionary to converse. We found two outdoor shops in Calle Mayor that sell the Altus raincoats for 35 euro - and another around the corner that sells them for 39 euro.
Most of the group met in the square for dinner and then we had an early night.
The pension Sarasate is spotlessly clean, has comfortable beds, wifi, tv, and ensuite bathrooms - 45 euro dble and 35 single.
We are now sitting in the sun in the park waiting for others to come down so that we can go to breakfast then we'll walk down to the bus station where Express Bouricott will collect us to take us to St Jean.

Monday, May 2, 2011

The benefits of walking as a group

One advantage of being with a group is that you can share costs to do things most pilgrims can't afford to do on their own.

Express Bouricott is going to collect us from Pamplona and take us to St Jean for lunch! Caroline is even booking us into a little restaurant that serves typical Basque food. Then she'll take us all back over the mountain to Roncesvalles where we'll start our walk the next day.

In Logrono, I have hired a minibus to take us to the castle at Clavijo for a couple of hours. This is where legend claims that St james was first seen on his white horse fighting for the Christians in 841.

La Posada Roncesvalles
 I have also hired a taxi to take us from Villafrance del Bierzo to Sarria where we sill start the last stage of our walk. I've arranged for the taxi to take us to O Cebreiro on the way where we will have an hour for morning tea.
 From Ponferrada a mini bus will take us to the Las Meduals World Heritage site for a morning - something I've wanted to do on previous trips but didn't have the time or the money to do on my own.


Castle walls Clavijo
 On our first night in Santiago we will be collected at 8:30pm and taken to Fistera to watch the sunset (praying for a clear night) with a hamper of tapas and wines to celebrate the end of our walk. Sunset is at 10:17pm so we won't get back to Santiago until after mid-night.

We are booked to do a nocturnal walking tour of Santiago on the Friday night which includes a visit to the cloisters of the Parador and a Queimada at mid-night. You have to have 15 people to do these tours.

Marker O Cebreiro
 I have never seen midnight on the Camino so I'm really looking forward to these different experiences!